Thursday 30 January 2014

Angkor Day 3: Pre Rup, East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean & Preah Khan

Today was a late start (9:30), I must say that I'm getting a little addicted to dragon fruit here with breakfasts; that and I found out where they keep the Vegemite. We headed out again to the west baray area for our first stop, passing the Srah Srang lake on our way. 

Pre Rup was lovely and had very few people. It's listed as a mountain temple and is supposedly dedicated to four different deities. It's a mix of brick and sandstone with many steep stairs leading to the upper levels. There were plenty of lion statues as well, some even with the heads attached (its a rare sight). There were even some nice carvings of Devata, Lakshmi, Vishnu and Shiva on each if the smaller towers on the top level.

From there we headed up the road to East Mebon, this is built in a huge (now) dry reservoir of up to 55million cubic meters of water. Because of the water the temple doesn't require any moats or enclosures and doesn't qualify as a mountain temple as there is no real 'height'. There are elephant statues on each corner of the main levels, some are in better condition than others (not helped by people climbing on them). There are goddess' and gods carved above doorways and finer work that had lost its stucco plaster work.

We continued up to Ta Som, a smaller forest temple that potentially held 22 divinities. It is in a fairly bad state and a lot is overgrown but the carvings are amazingly detailed. It has a simple layout but it can be difficult to navigate the fallen rubble. An entire doorway on the east (?) entrance is covered by strangler fig roots, it doesn't obscure the face tower but adds to it. 

From there we headed to Neak Pean, which is more monument than temple to be fair, it's based on a lake system although you can only walk around the front of the complex as the central path is blocked the stop people getting near the water. 

From there we drove to Preah Khan, this is a huge complex full of twisting passageways and rubble. Strangler figs and silk cotton trees have reclaimed some areas. Both entrance ways are lined firstly with boundary stones with Garuda's engraved then naga's over a false moat. There was a small building before the main complex called the 'house of fire' a small temple for starting rituals before heading into the main complex.
Inside there were large sections of damaged pillars and roofs with rubble all around, most fairly safe to clamber over to tech a new area. The carving detail is wonderful and quite well preserved. 

Detailing in the hall of dancers, potentially defaced Buddha's

At about this point my camera died so any photos posted here were taken on my iPod. The passage through to the central sanctuary was a little crowded but the sanctuary itself was quite simple.

Pillar in central sanctuary, Preah Khan. Not original sculpture, original may have been removed by a subsequent king. 

I had only explored about half of the complex and I had been there for about an hour. I headed out the west gate and got a snack of a whole pineapple (they have small sweet ones here) and waited for Nicola to come through. We then headed towards Angkor Thom for lunch then drove by Angkor Wat and headed back to the hostel. We relaxed an I had a swim. Then headed out to dinner and got an early night as tomorrow is going to be a day full of long drives



Angkor Day 2: Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ta Prohm

Today we did, what's called the short circuit. It includes Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Prasat Kravan. 

We started by watching the sunrise over the pools in Angkor Wat, there were lots of people by the left lake and not as many by the right. I got some lovely pictures that I will consider having made into prints to hang at home. After the sun had risen we joined the crowds in exploring the architecture around us. The crowds made it less enjoyable and harder to take photo's, while the site itself is huge so were the numbers of tourists. I would suggest going mid morning to avoid the rush.

Onto Angkor and the Bayon, this another large complex and is a popular photo choice as it has hundreds of stone faces carved into the buildings in honor of Vishnu but but based off of the face of the Khmer king. While dodging the tourists was still an issue, it was completely worth it. The facades and carvings were wondrous and camera draining.

Ta Keo and Ta Prohm were full of tourists as well (there's a pattern emerging) and they were not in good shape. Many boulders and broken ruins stood around which did allow us to explore the majority of the complexes rooms with relative ease. It was still hauntingly beautiful but not in the same league as others we have seen.

Banteay Srei and Prasat Kravan were nice albeit smaller, still made from red stones and in fairly good condition but much simpler than their counter parts. I found out that Prasat Kravan was built by a nobleman not a king hence the simpler design and being on one one level. 

After getting back and having a refreshing swim in the hostel's pool (comparatively freezing to air temperature) we freshened up had an early dinner and wandered the markets for a bit before returning and relaxing before sleeping.

Tuesday 28 January 2014

Angkor Day 1: Banteay Srei, Kbal Spean & Banteay Samre

Edit to last nights post, we made some friends with some of the other girls in our dorm and went out for dinner, street pancakes (banana & chocolate) and had a drink (G&T) before returning to the hostel as we all had earlyish starts. 

We started at 8:30 and drove to pick up our 7 day Angkor pass (US$60) then headed out to Banteay Srei. This is also known as the woman's temple, it's carved from red sandstone and dedicated to Shiva (Hindu goddess of destruction). While not much remains the carvings that remain were beautifully ornate and detailed. Parts show Hindu gods and deamons as well as the infamous monkey king from Ramayana, others show dancers and fine floral patterns.

We then jumped back on the toktok and headed further out to Kbal Spean, a mountain river with a carved riverbed showing Shiva and other gods/royalty as well as circular carvings all the way down the river to the baby waterfall. The walk to the top was signposted as 1500m, it wasn't an easy climb as some areas are very steep and the path is littered with rocks and tree roots. But you'll be breathing heavily even at a steady pace, granted it was quite warm around 12-1pm. All in all a lovely spot, well worth the walk. 

After eating lunch with our driver we set off again this time heading for Banteay Samre another Hindu based temple, most likely dedicated to Vishnu. Built around the same time as the Angkor Wat it shares similar architecture but on a comparatively smaller scale. We were shown a new area by one of the tour operators (manning a shrine) of an area that had been damaged under one of the inner towers. They're completely hollow and this one had bats living inside, the robbers had knocked in some ornamental pillars that acted as a screen. 

One of the gateways and the ornate carvings ontop 
The inner courtyard and pillars
Some of the detailing on the sides of the gateway



Monday 27 January 2014

HaNoi to Siem Riep

After a lazy breakfast of Pho and packing up our gear, we headed out to find an early lunch at 4 mountains restaurant  (recommended by the hostel). We split a wheat noodle with beef and a glass noodle with crab, both were very tasty and filling. The place itself was nice and comparatively quiet, rather easy to loose yourself in thought as motorcycles pass by. 

After that we did a final check of our room and then checked out and awaited our ride to the airport. The flight to Siem Riep was essentially uneventful, it's similar to Europe where you can get on a plane and in 1-2hrs be in another country. Although I will say that the Siem Reip international airport is a very beautiful building (traditional rooftops and the like, I'll grab a picture on the way home) built so you can admire as you walk across the tarmac.

Our driver was lovely ad delivered us safely to our hostel (Siem Riep Hostel). 
View from our dorm window
He will also be available as our driver for the next 5 days. So we're going to shower, eat dinner and then plan out our day tomorrow since we start at 8:30 sharp :)

Sunday 26 January 2014

Ha Noi first impressions


Ha Noi... Where to begin. The comparative silence of the hostel room is a palatable relief after exploring, if you have asthma/respiratory issues invest in a face mask, I felt the purpetual need to sneeze while outside. We stayed in Hanoi Hostel, Hang Thung, HaNoi; the manager and staff were friendly and helpful. Breakfast is provided and I chose noodle soup with vegetables, light but energizing. We then went exploring and tried to find a vintage market in HaNoi's old quarter - we think we missed it by a day - kangaroo cafe was closed for Tet so we couldn't check tour prices for Sa Pa and Halong Bay, or buy lunch.

We were recommended a good Bahn chan place, literally around the corner. Beef/pork cooked and served in hot broth with chili oil and lots of pepper. Noodles, lettuce, coriander/cillantro and mint on the side to add at your leisure. The chili's were small red with some decent heat but the main 'heat' of the meal came from the black pepper. 

I did manage to find a silk 'sleeping bag' which I can use as a lining for my own for a decent price.

Dinner was tasty Pho Ba from 49 Bat Dab (old quarter). Then we wandered to find a convenience store to get some Melona (Korean icecream). Found a nice skirt in a boutique-y place, red and black tartan patterned :) 


I'm in Ha Noi!

Flying here was an experience and a half. Forgot how busy Tet is so checkin took 1.5hrs. One of the most bumpy landings I've ever had in Ho Chi Minh. Chatted to a lovely guy from Newcastle and survived a taxi ride from the air port with Nicola. 
But I'm here and now I sleep 

Friday 24 January 2014

We're off again!

Hello again, 

This is a change from no activity for 2yrs to another trip. This time I'll be adventuring around Viet Nam and Cambodia for about a month.

The plan currently is 

Ha Noi

Siem Reip (Angkor)

Ho Chi Minh

Da Lat

Hoi An

Hue

Ha Noi

Sa Pa

Ha Noi

HOME (in time for uni)

I'll be trying to update this daily, but I can't promise it. Subscribe to receive an email each time I post or follow with your openID/RRS